Build Your Own Cornhole Boards

What’s a picnic or an outdoor gathering of family or friends without playing a few games of cornhole (also called “bags”). This simple game can be enjoyed by anyone able to grip a corn- or bean-filled bag and toss it to the board at the opposite end.

The basic rules of cornhole:

• The boards should be 2’x4’ in size with a 6”-diameter hole.
• Official bags are 6”x6” in size and weigh 1 lb each.
• Boards are placed 27’ apart per the official rules, but can be moved closer as needed.
• One player of each team plays from opposing ends. When tossing, players alternate turns.
• Players throw the bags from behind the front edge of the board.
• Bags that go through the hole score 3 points each. Bags that land on the top surface without touching the ground score 1 point each. A game is played to 21.

While you can certainly buy premade cornhole boards, we’ll show you an easy way to make your own cornhole boards for a fraction of the price. The materials we chose result in boards that are sturdy enough for play, yet light enough to easily carry. Plus, you can customize the cornhole boards to your liking with a paint scheme or decals that you purchase. Have fun with it! Now, let’s get started.

Materials:

• (1) half-sheet (4’x4’) of ¼” hardboard
• (6) 1”x4”x8’ pine boards
• (1) 1”x6”x8’ pine board
• (1) 1-lb box #9 x 2” coated deck screws
• (2) pair draw catches
• (1) 5-1/2” utility handle
• (4) ¼”x2-1/2” carriage bolts
• (4) ¼” flat washers
• (4) ¼” nylon lock nuts
• (1) tube construction adhesive

Step by step:

1. Start by cutting four frame sides 48” long, eight frame rails 22-1/2” long, four middle stretchers 15-1/2” long, and two bottom stretchers 16-1/2” long. Rip all these parts to 2-1/2” wide.

2. Build the frames by screwing the frame sides to the end rails.

3. Screw the middle stretchers to the middle rails, then screw this assembly to each frame.

4. Measure the distance between the end rail and the lower middle rail, cut the bottom stretchers to fit, and screw in place.

NOTE: The middle rails and stretchers not only add strength to the frame, but they also prevent the bags from bouncing excessively on the top during game play.

5. Cut four leg blanks 12” long and 2-1/2” wide. Laminate the blanks with double-faced tape into two pairs. Lay out a location at one end 1-1/4” from the end and edges. Draw a radius with a compass on that end, then cut and sand the radius to shape. Drill a ¼” hole at the layout mark. Cut each blank to 11-3/4” long with a 10° miter. Separate the taped-together legs.

6. Cut two 4” x 21” leg stretchers to size. Lay out the location for the leg stretchers on each leg, then screw them together into two leg assemblies.

7. Cut the hardboard into two 2’x4’ pieces. Lay out the centerpoint of each hole in both pieces 9” from the top edge and centered side to side.

8. To cut the cleanest holes, use a router with a spiral bit mounted on a trammel. (If you don’t have a storebought trammel, you can easily make one from a length of plywood or hardboard.) Begin by drilling a hole at the centerpoint equal in size to the pivot pin in your trammel. Set the bit to cut inside the line. Support the panel, including the circle, underneath with sacrificial boards or rigid foam board. Plunge and rout the circle in one pass. Repeat for the other panel.

NOTE: You can also cut these holes with a jigsaw, but it will require more sanding and cleanup work.

9. Secure a panel to each frame using construction adhesive (to avoid having any exposed fasteners on the top surface). Clamp the panel to the frame securely and allow to dry.

10. Drill a ¼” hole in the top end of both frame sides 2” from the end and centered across the width to accept the leg bolts. Install a leg assembly to each game board with a carriage bolt, flat washer, and lock nut. Don’t overtighten—the leg should pivot stiffly.

NOTE: The acute angle (less than 90°) of the feet should be at the end of the board, farthest from the hole.

11. Sand any rough or sharp edges or corners.

12. Clamp the game boards together with the playing surface outward. Install two draw catches on each end.

13. Install the handle to one of the sides, centered along the length.

Now you’re ready to play! The hardboard presents a smooth surface that works well as is, but you can also paint or decorate the boards to your liking. When finished playing, store the bags inside the game boards, lock them together, and carry in one piece to the garage until next time.

So, build your own set of custom cornhole boards and enjoy game after game of fun with friends and family. Post photos of your boards on social media and be sure to include #sawstop so we can see your designs. Enjoy!